Types of Jeans: Fits, Rises, Washes and Denim Weights Explained
Understand jean fits, rise, denim weight, raw and washed finishes and selvedge, so you can choose jeans that suit your body and last for years.
Key takeaways
- Rise decides where jeans sit on your body. Fit describes the leg shape from hip to hem.
- Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard. Heavier denim is tougher and warmer.
- Raw denim is unwashed and fades with wear. Washed denim is softened before sale.
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill fabric. In classic denim the warp threads are dyed with indigo while the weft threads are left undyed, which gives the cloth a blue face and a paler reverse. Jeans are cut from it in many shapes, and the names used by shops can be confusing. This guide explains the main terms.
Jean fits
| Fit | How it is cut |
|---|---|
| Skinny | Tight from hip to ankle, usually made with stretch fabric |
| Slim | Close to the leg but not skin tight |
| Straight | The same width from knee to hem |
| Regular | More room through the seat and thigh, with a straight leg |
| Relaxed | Roomier throughout, with a looser seat and thigh |
| Tapered | Fuller at the thigh and narrowing toward the ankle |
| Bootcut | Slightly flared below the knee to sit over boots |
| Flare | Widens noticeably from the knee to the hem |
| Wide leg | Wide from the hip to the hem |
Understanding rise
Rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. A low rise sits on or below the hip bones. A mid rise sits a little below the navel. A high rise sits at or above the navel and tends to emphasise the waist. Your torso length and your preferred shirt length will help decide which feels most comfortable.
Denim weight
Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard of fabric before washing. Lightweight denim is usually under about 12 ounces and suits warm weather. Midweight denim, roughly 12 to 14 ounces, is the everyday standard. Heavyweight denim above about 14 ounces is stiffer, warmer and slower to break in, and some raw denim goes beyond 20 ounces.
Raw, washed and selvedge denim
- Raw or dry denim: sold unwashed and untreated. It is stiff at first and gradually fades along the creases and edges you wear most.
- Washed denim: softened and pre-faded in the factory. Common finishes include rinse washes, which keep a dark colour, and stone or enzyme washes, which lighten the fabric.
- Selvedge denim: woven on traditional shuttle looms, which create a self-finished edge that does not fray. The edge is often visible on the outer seam when the hem is cuffed.
Stretch denim
Many modern jeans contain a small amount of elastane, usually a few percent, for comfort and shape recovery. Stretch denim is more forgiving to wear, while 100 percent cotton denim is generally more rigid and long lasting.
Choosing jeans that fit well
- Try them on sitting down. The waistband should not gape at the back or dig in at the front.
- Choose the waist to fit and have the hem altered, because hems are easy to adjust.
- Remember that most non-stretch denim loosens slightly with wear.
Caring for jeans
Wash jeans less often than other clothes, inside out in cold water, and hang them to dry. This protects the colour, reduces shrinkage and extends their life.
