Types of Shirt Collars and When to Wear Each One
A clear guide to point, spread, button-down, club, band, wing and camp collars, with advice on which to wear with a tie and which for casual use.
Key takeaways
- Point collars suit narrower tie knots. Spread collars suit wider ones.
- Button-down collars are the most versatile for casual and smart casual wear.
- Wing collars are reserved for formal evening dress, and camp collars for relaxed summer shirts.
The collar frames the face and decides how formal a shirt looks. Names can vary between brands, but the main styles are well established. The collar stand is the narrow band that holds the collar upright at the neck, and the collar leaves, also called the fall, are the parts that fold over.
Common shirt collars
| Collar | Description | Best used for |
|---|---|---|
| Point | Narrow gap between the collar points | Business shirts with a slim to medium tie knot |
| Spread | Points set wide apart | Business wear with a wider tie knot, or no tie |
| Cutaway | An extreme spread with points angled sharply back | Fashion-forward tailoring and large knots |
| Button-down | Points fasten to the shirt front with small buttons | Casual and smart casual, often without a tie |
| Tab | A small tab fastens behind the tie knot | Traditional business wear with a tie |
| Pin | Eyelets hold a metal bar behind the tie | Formal business and traditional dress |
| Club | Rounded collar points | Classic or vintage-inspired outfits |
| Band | A stand-up band with no folded leaves | Casual wear, or layered under jackets |
| Wing | Stiff, upturned points | Formal evening dress with a bow tie |
| Camp | An open, flat collar with no stand | Relaxed summer shirts, worn untucked |
Matching a collar to a tie
A tie knot should fill the space between the collar points without leaving a large gap or being squeezed. Spread collars give room for a wider knot such as a Windsor, while point collars pair with smaller knots such as the four-in-hand. If you wear a jacket and tie, the collar should rise slightly above the jacket collar at the back of the neck.
The button-down collar
The button-down is popularly credited to Brooks Brothers in the 1890s, inspired by polo players who fastened their collars to stop them flapping. Today it is one of the most versatile styles because it holds its shape without a tie and still looks neat with one.
Collar stays
Many dress shirts have small pockets under the collar points that hold removable plastic or metal stays. Stays keep the points flat and crisp. Remove them before washing and replace them afterwards.
Choosing the right collar
- For one all-round dress shirt, a medium spread collar works with or without a tie.
- For casual wear, choose button-down or camp collars.
- Check that the collar closes comfortably with room for one or two fingers at the neck.
