How to Wash Wool and Cashmere Without Shrinking Them
Step-by-step instructions for hand washing wool and cashmere, drying them flat, removing pills and storing knits so they keep their shape.
Key takeaways
- Heat, water and rubbing together cause wool to felt and shrink, so keep all three gentle.
- Use cool water and a detergent made for wool or delicates.
- Press water out with a towel and dry the garment flat, never on a hanger.
Wool and cashmere reward good care with years of use. The main rule is to avoid anything that makes the fibres tangle together. Wool fibres have microscopic surface scales, and heat, moisture and agitation make those scales lock together. This is called felting, and it permanently shrinks the garment.
Before you start
- Read the care label. If it says dry clean only, follow that instruction.
- Wash less often. Wool resists odour, and airing a sweater for a day is often enough between wears.
- Check for stains and treat them gently with a small amount of wool-safe detergent.
How to hand wash wool and cashmere
- Fill a clean basin with cool water. Aim for about 30 degrees Celsius, which feels barely lukewarm to the hand.
- Add a little wool detergent. Use a product made for wool or delicates and mix it into the water before adding the garment.
- Submerge and soak. Turn the garment inside out, press it under the water and leave it for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Swish gently. Move the garment through the water with your hands. Do not rub, scrub, twist or wring.
- Rinse in water of the same temperature. A sudden change in temperature can shock the fibres. Repeat until the water runs clear.
- Press out the water. Lift the garment with both hands, supporting its weight, and press it against the side of the basin.
- Roll it in a towel. Lay it on a clean towel, roll the towel up and press to absorb moisture.
Drying wool correctly
Lay the garment flat on a dry towel or a drying rack. Reshape the body and sleeves by hand, and keep it away from direct sunlight and radiators. Hanging a wet knit lets the weight of the water stretch it out of shape. Drying can take a day or more, so turn the garment over once.
Removing pills
Pills are small balls of fibre that form where fabric rubs, such as under the arms. They are normal, especially on soft yarns. Remove them with a wool comb or a fabric shaver, working gently on a flat surface. Pulling them off by hand can loosen more fibre.
Storing knitwear
- Fold knits rather than hanging them, so the shoulders do not stretch.
- Wash garments before long-term storage, because clothes moths are attracted to body oils and food traces.
- Store in breathable cotton bags or sealed containers, with cedar blocks or lavender as a mild deterrent.
Common questions
Can I use a washing machine?
Only if the label allows it. Use a wool or hand-wash cycle with a cold wash, a low spin speed and a mesh laundry bag. Never tumble dry wool.
Can a shrunk wool sweater be fixed?
Mild shrinkage can sometimes be eased by soaking the garment in cool water with a little hair conditioner and gently reshaping it. Fully felted wool cannot be reversed.
